Sjötorp is one of the starting points for those who book a bicycle package. We arrive on a sunny summer day to begin our journey of discovery along the old towpaths. Peals of laughter resound from the terrace of the Restaurant Kajutan, and the little red shops are also full of visitors. An old harbour warehouse is home to a tourist office and the three-storey Canal Museum, where you can see classic motors, old naval maps and lovely posters from the early 20th century. And don’t miss the famous Sjötorp honey-smoked salmon. A visit to Maltes Fisk och Delikatesser is a must.

The rental bikes are sturdy and comfortable, with broad wheels that roll smoothly on gravel and grass alike. After about seven kilometres, the Lyrestad church appears shining white on the horizon. Later, in the area surrounding the Norrkvarn lock, we see a miniature version of the same church tower in a model of the whole Västergötland part of the Göta Canal. Nearby is a restaurant, Hedvig Elisabeth and Norrqvarns Brygga, a popular stop for hungry bicyclists and boaters. If you want to spend the night, there’s everything from enchanted tree stumps to hotel rooms at the Baltzar von Platen Lodge in the old industrial mill. There is also youth hostel accommodation.

Our energy restored with cod and seafood salad, or game lasagne with chanterelle mushrooms, we depart from Norrkvarn. Soon we fall into a rhythm and the pedals seem to turn by themselves. The canal flows like a stroke of blue paint on one side, while fields of gold wave on the other. When we come to Hajstorp, we celebrate the halfway mark with ice cream at the little canal café, which is also a youth hostel. Besides watching boats passing through the lock, you can visit the old canal warehouse, which now sells handicrafts.

A new campsite near the guest harbour in Töreboda entices us with a pool area and minigolf; but we ride on to the Lina, Sweden’s smallest ferry in regular traffic. It takes just a few seconds to cross the canal and costs just 50 öre. On the other side, the landscape changes into pine woods. The water gets darker – perhaps the canal is deeper here. Suddenly I spy a movement at the surface that leaves spreading rings on the water. Probably just a fish… or was it Baby Nessie?
 

As evening wears on, we arrive at the youth hostel in Tåtorp, where we plan to spend the night. Operated by Jonas and Margareta Fällström, the hostel is fully ecological. We take a very welcome shower before sitting down to the dinner we ordered beforehand in the ecological café. The high ceiling and giant windows on all sides give it a sort of cathedral feel. Margareta dishes up a colourful salad made of ecological vegetables from nearby farms. Dessert is a Swedish Tosca cake topped with caramelised almonds – of course all ecological. The peaceful surroundings, plus all the excitement of the day, makes us realise how tired we are. We’re asleep as soon as we get into bed.

The next morning we roll down to Lake Viken, where we board the VikenSnabben, a special boat for bicyclists who want to avoid the infamous hills in Beateberg. It’s about a half-hour to Brosundet, then about four kilometres to ride along the main road before we arrive in Forsvik. The well-preserved industrial area is the heart of the town. Slide shows, exhibitions and theatre teach about the industrial history of Forsvik from the 19th and 20th centuries.

One of the many exciting projects in Forsvik is the construction of the replica paddle steamer Eric Nordevall II, whose original lies on the bottom of Lake Vättern. The vessel came from the first generation of steamers and travelled the Göta Canal in the 19th century. The Forsvik Lock is also the oldest and highest lock in the canal. The best place to watch boats in the lock is from the garden behind Forsviks Café & Mat, where you can also enjoy pastries or solid food such as “steamboat steaks”.

When you’re in Karlsborg, don’t miss Idas Brygga. The restaurant is very popular and mentioned in several restaurant guides, including the White Guide. Fish dishes are some-thing of a specialty, but there are plenty of other options on the menu. The terrace overlooks the canal and vessels arriving at the dock.  Your Göta Canal adventure isn’t over yet! The exciting adventure tour of the Karlsborg Fortress still awaits, and the ride back to Sjötorp will also be a new experience, with other boats, views and meetings. The Göta Canal always has a fresh face, wherever you go.

Heidi Rovén
2008-01-26